Building a Lean-to Roof Storage Shed from Start to Finish

Building a lean-to roof storage shed is a fantastic way to add some extra storage space to your yard, and it's a great project for DIY enthusiasts. You'll need to start by planning your shed's size and location.

The ideal location for a lean-to shed is near a wall or a fence, as this will provide support for the roof and make construction easier. Make sure the area is level and clear of any debris.

To begin construction, you'll need to prepare the site by clearing the area and marking out the footprint of your shed. This is a great opportunity to check the level of the ground and make any necessary adjustments.

A lean-to shed typically has a simple gable roof, which is easy to build and requires minimal materials. The roof's pitch should be around 3:12 to ensure proper water run-off.

Take a look at this: How to Roof a Lean to Shed

Before you start building your lean-to roof storage shed, it's essential to plan and prepare thoroughly. Determining the size and slope of your roof is crucial, as a minimum pitch of 10 degrees is recommended in Western Australia to ensure efficient rainwater drainage.

A detailed plan should be created, including the dimensions, material list, and necessary permits required by your local council. This ensures compliance with local regulations, avoiding future complications.

The simplicity of the lean-to roof design makes it easier to construct, but it's still important to consider effective water runoff to reduce the risk of leaks and standing water. Creating a plan that takes this into account will help you build a sturdy and functional storage shed.

On a similar theme: Shed Roof Framing Plan Details

Building the platform is a crucial step in constructing a lean to roof storage shed.

Use pressure treated 2×6 boards for the joists, spaced every 16 inches on center.

Underneath the joists, you'll need to install skids, which are typically made of 4×4 pressure treated boards.

This will give you the ability to move the shed, and it's essential for the shed's stability.

To attach the skids to the joists, use metal brackets for additional strength.

You can also use 6 inch long structural leg screws from the bottom of the 4×4 and through the joist for extra support.

Building a shed roof with trusses is so much easier and simpler than building a shed roof with a ridge board, especially if you're building your outdoor shed yourself. Most of the assembly work can be done down on the ground.

You can actually build a jig on your shed floor or any open flat floor that has enough room. Build one truss, check to see that it fits, and if it does, you're good to go with the rest of the trusses. They will all be identical.

Using pre-built trusses is a game-changer for DIY shed builders. It saves time and effort in the long run.

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When building the platform, you'll want to choose the right fasteners to prevent rusting. Use galvanised nails and screws, as they're specifically designed to withstand the elements.

For added security, consider using galvanised screws, which are coated with a layer of zinc to protect against corrosion. This will help extend the lifespan of your platform.

Galvanised nails are a great alternative to regular nails, as they're less likely to rust and cause damage to your platform. Just be sure to use them in conjunction with galvanised screws for added protection.

The ledger board is a crucial part of our platform's structure, and it's essential to get it right. Attach a ledger board to the existing structure, and it will support one end of the rafters.

To ensure the ledger board is secure, make sure it's level and properly fastened. This will prevent any wobbling or shifting that could compromise the entire structure.

The ledger board will be attached to the existing structure, so take your time to get it just right.

Framing walls for a lean to shed goes fairly quickly and is a lot of fun. The rear wall measured about 7 1/2 feet in height.

Double top plates add additional strength and also provide a way to tie each wall together. I used 2 jack studs on each side under the header for the doors, which worked out well.

For the walls, I built them all to the same height, which made the process easier. Next, I added a smaller wall to create more height at the front of the shed, but I would do it differently next time.

The walls were secured in place using framing nails, making sure to nail into the outer joist.

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Framing the walls is a crucial part of building a shed. You'll want to use 2×4 boards for the majority of the project.

Eight foot long boards are a good choice for most of the walls. Ten foot long boards are better suited for the front of the shed.

The bottom and top plates are typically made from 2x4x12 foot long boards. A double top plate adds extra strength to the walls.

LVL beams are a good option for headers over windows, and they come in 1 3/4 inch thickness. You can fasten two together to match the 3 1/2 inch thickness of the walls.

A 7 1/2 foot height is a good starting point for the rear wall. Make sure to nail into the outer joist when securing the walls in place.

Using jack studs, also known as trimmers, can help add support to the walls. A 1.5/12 pitch is a good starting point for the roof, but feel free to experiment with different pitches.

Sheathing the walls is a crucial step in building your shed.

7/16 OSB is a suitable choice for exterior walls, and it's essentially the same as 1/2 inch OSB, so either will work great.

Plywood walls are a great option for sheds and other outdoor structures. I used 1/2 inch plywood for the interior walls of my shed.

It's durable and can withstand being moved, which is a plus if you plan to relocate your shed. Plywood is also relatively inexpensive compared to other materials.

I chose plywood because it's easy to install, which saved me time and effort. A flexible and paintable caulk can be used at the seams to create a seamless finish.

Plywood can be painted to match your desired color scheme. I used Agreeable grey paint from Sherwin Williams, which turned out great.

Trim can be a bit tricky, but it's worth getting right. You can use an engineered trim with a wood pattern, but I used 1×4 pine boards instead due to a shortage.

A large brush is perfect for staining all sides of each board with an oil-based exterior stain. I applied it evenly to ensure a smooth finish.

You'll need to add some extra support before putting up the soffit, so make sure to add some additional blocking.

A stick frame is essentially a type of framing used in construction.

You can use 2x4's, 2x6's, or whatever framing material you're working with.

The key element of a stick frame is the ridge board, which runs down the middle ridge line of the structure.

Rafters then run down from the ridge board and rest on the top wall plates.

Sometimes, a rafter will have a 'tail' that extends out past the wall, creating a soffit or overhang.

Removing framing and walls requires careful planning to avoid damaging surrounding structures.

Colour steel sheets are preferred for their durability and minimal maintenance, making them a great choice for roofing, but not necessarily for framing and walls.

You'll need to assess the type of framing and walls you're dealing with to determine the best removal method.

Colour steel sheets are preferred for their durability and minimal maintenance, making them a great choice for roofing, but not necessarily for framing and walls.

Removing framing and walls can be a messy process, so be prepared to clean up afterwards.

Installing a beam across the support posts is a crucial step in ensuring the roof's stability. Use a horizontal beam to provide additional support for the rafters. This beam should be placed across the support posts that were installed at regular intervals on the opposite side of the rafters.

The beam should be securely fastened to the support posts to prevent any movement or shifting. This is especially important if you're working with heavy rafters or in an area prone to strong winds. Make sure the beam is level and plumb to ensure the roof remains stable and secure.

Related reading: How to Cut Rafters for a Shed Roof

To start, you'll need to cut the rafters to the required length, depending on the span of the roof and the desired overhang. This will ensure a sturdy and secure foundation for your shed.

Use galvanised metal brackets to secure the rafters to the ledger board and the horizontal beam, spacing them equally between 600mm to 800mm apart. This will provide a solid base for your roof.

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For the roof sheathing, lay down plywood or OSB and attach it securely to the rafters using galvanised nails or screws. This layer acts as a base for the roofing material.

Adding a layer of underlayment, such as synthetic underlayment or tar paper, will provide extra protection against water damage. Drip edge should be installed over the underlayment on the rake edges or side roof edges, and under the underlayment on the bottom or horizontal edges.

To start building your rafters, you'll want to cut them to the required length, which depends on the span of the roof and the desired overhang. The rafters can be made out of 2×6 or 2×8 boards.

For a lean to shed, rafters can overhang the front a couple of feet and the back about 10 inches. A bird's mouth cut is often made at the front and back of each rafter to ensure it rests flat on the top plate.

Take a look at this: Shed Overhang Roof

Rafters should be secured every 24 inches on center using hurricane clips. This provides extra support and helps prevent damage from strong winds.

Sub facia is added to the front, back, and sides of the rafters to tie them together. This helps create a solid base for the roofing material.

The length of the rafters will depend on the span of the roof and the desired overhang. To ensure they're securely attached, use galvanised metal brackets to attach the rafters to the ledger board and horizontal beam.

Attach the rafters to the ledger board and the horizontal beam, ensuring they're equally spaced, typically between 600mm to 800mm apart.

Shingles can be a bit overwhelming, but trust me, it's worth getting right. Install shingles over a layer of underlayment, which can be synthetic or tar paper, depending on your budget and preference.

You'll need a starter roll of shingles to begin with, and it's a good idea to invest in a roofing nailer if you plan on building multiple structures in the future. I used a roofing nailer and it saved me a lot of time and effort.

Onyx Black shingles are a great option, affordable and durable. I bought mine at the Home Depot and was able to install them in just a few long afternoons.

To avoid costly repairs down the road, make sure to add drip edge and felt paper to your roof before putting down the shingles. This is especially important if you live in an area with heavy snow and ice.

Installing gutters is a crucial step in managing rainwater efficiently. Ensure they are sloped correctly towards the downpipes for optimal drainage.

A well-installed gutter system can make a big difference in preventing water damage to your home. Attach gutters along the lower edge of the roof for proper water management.

The slope of the gutters is key to preventing water from accumulating and causing problems. A slight incline towards the downpipes is usually sufficient for efficient drainage.

Regular maintenance is also important to keep your gutters in good condition.

For the siding and exterior of your lean to roof storage shed, you'll want to choose materials that are durable and weather-resistant. Vinyl siding is a popular choice because it's easy to install and requires minimal maintenance.

You can also consider using OSB (oriented strand board) for the exterior walls, which can be covered with a layer of exterior-grade plywood for added protection. This will provide a solid base for your shed's siding.

For the roof, you'll want to use a waterproof material like asphalt shingles, which can be installed in a simple and straightforward manner.

Siding is a crucial aspect of any exterior project, and it's essential to get it right. An angled sidewall and blocking is added beneath the rafters to secure the siding to the upper part of the wall.

Pete uses 4×8 sheets of siding for his shed, which is a common size for many exterior projects. This size allows for easy handling and installation.

Nails are used to secure the siding to the studs, and a coil nailer is a handy tool for this task. Two-inch long nails are the preferred length for this job.

The siding is attached to the studs, ensuring a secure and weather-tight seal. This is a critical step in protecting the interior of the building from the elements.

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When choosing a facia board, consider using 1×8 boards, as they provide a suitable option for this purpose.

Staining all sides of the facia board prior to installation is a good idea, as it helps to ensure a uniform appearance.

The type of wood used for the facia board will ultimately depend on the desired look and durability needed for the project.

House wrap is a crucial step in preparing the shed for siding, and it's essential to get it right. The shed was wrapped with house wrap, providing a protective barrier against moisture and air leaks.

The large window on the front is a great example of proper window installation. It's 12 feet wide by about 7 1/2 feet tall, and its size requires careful consideration when planning the shed's design.

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