DIY Gambrel Roof Building Guide for Beginners

A gambrel roof is a great choice for a DIY project, as it's relatively simple to build and can add a lot of character to your home.

The gambrel roof style originated in Europe, where it was used on farmhouses and other rural buildings.

To start building a gambrel roof, you'll need to determine the size and pitch of your roof. This will depend on the size and design of your building.

A typical gambrel roof has two slopes, with the lower slope being steeper than the upper slope. This creates a unique and functional space for storage or living areas.

The steeper lower slope is often used to provide additional storage space or a loft area, while the upper slope is used for the main living space.

You can build a gambrel roof using traditional framing methods or with a pre-made gambrel roof kit.

The design and planning phase of a DIY gambrel project is where the magic happens. A gambrel roof's unique shape is achieved by adding a second slope to the traditional gable roof, creating a distinctive look.

To get started, you'll need to decide on the size and style of your gambrel roof. The ideal roof pitch is between 3:12 and 4:12, with a minimum of 3:12 for the lower slope and 6:12 for the upper slope.

The gambrel roof's design allows for more storage space in the attic, making it a great option for homes with limited space. The roof's slope also helps to shed snow and water, reducing the risk of damage and maintenance.

When selecting materials, consider using durable and weather-resistant materials like asphalt shingles or metal roofing. The gambrel roof's design also allows for easy access to the attic, making it a great option for DIY projects.

Gambrel roofs are a popular choice for many builders, and for good reason - they offer a lot of space and a unique aesthetic.

To design a gambrel roof, you'll need to understand the definitions of its key components.

A gambrel truss is a type of roof truss that features two slopes, with the lower slope being steeper than the upper slope.

Gambrel truss pieces are calculated based on specific formulas and measurements, which can be found in the article section "Definitions of gambrel truss pieces."

The length of each truss member is determined by the overall design of the roof and the materials being used.

To determine the end angles of the truss members, you'll need to follow the steps outlined in the article section "Definitions of gambrel truss pieces."

By understanding the definitions of gambrel roof components, you'll be better equipped to design and build a roof that meets your needs and exceeds your expectations.

When framing a shed, it's essential to start with the right truss dimensions. Typically, sheds are built with the exact dimensions of the floor matching the shed size, so if you're building a 10' wide x 12' long shed, your floor will measure exactly 10' x 12' after framing and sheeting.

Snap a chalk line on the floor and measure off 10' to mark the starting point for your trusses. This will give you a clear reference point for your truss layout.

For a gambrel truss, you'll need to measure down 3 1/2" off each line to represent a full 2x4. This will help you determine the length and angle of each truss piece.

Each truss piece will be 3' 10" long on the top measurement, and the angles cut will be 22.5 degrees off each end. Using a speed square will make it easy to get these angle measurements.

It's crucial to check that the width of your truss is exactly 10' from one bottom side to the other, especially with the first truss. This ensures that the remaining trusses will be identical and provides the necessary support for your shed roof.

To find the mid-line measurement, you need to snap a line between the two points where you measured 5' off the horizontal and vertical lines. This line will help you determine the exact distance for the top measurements of your truss pieces.

Snap a line from the original midpoint up through the new location to get an accurate measurement. This will ensure that your truss pieces have identical top and bottom measurements and identical angle cuts on each end.

Measuring off 5' on the line that represents the 45-degree line off the midpoint will give you the necessary points to determine your top truss measurements. This is because of the 45-degree line you made earlier, which will help you achieve identical measurements on each end of your truss pieces.

The mid-line measurement is a crucial step in designing your truss, and it's essential to get it right to ensure that your truss pieces fit together perfectly. By following these steps, you'll be able to achieve accurate measurements and create a sturdy truss for your shed or garage.

Building a jig is a crucial step in ensuring your truss pieces fit together correctly. To make a jig, start by cutting 4 more truss pieces.

You'll want to line up these truss pieces in your jig, making sure they fit your 10' wide shed. Continue nailing on gusset plates to secure them in place.

Additional bracing may be added across the trusses for more support, but be sure to space each truss exactly at its own center location across the top.

For a DIY gambrel project, you'll need a few essential tools to get started. A measuring tape is a must-have for taking precise measurements.

A hammer is also necessary for driving nails and fitting parts together.

A utility knife with a hooked blade is perfect for trimming shingles and other materials.

A shingle adhesive brush is used to apply adhesive to the shingles, ensuring a secure fit.

You'll also need a saw for cutting various materials to size.

Here's a list of materials you'll need:

In addition to these tools, you'll need some basic materials like wood trusses, plywood, and nails.

Roof Construction is a crucial step in building a DIY Gambrel. To start, you'll need to sheet the roof with 1/2" OSB panels, beginning with one of the upper corners and ensuring the outside short edge is flush with the outside truss.

The OSB panels should be nailed to the trusses every 8 inches with 8d common nails. It's essential to stagger the panel joints for strength, nailing them 8 inches along the perimeter and 12 inches in the field or inside trusses.

To ensure your roof is square, you may need to pull or push the sheet to get it to line up with the rest of the truss tops. Once you've accomplished this, you can nail the sheet to the trusses in the same fashion.

Here's a summary of the steps to sheet the roof:

With the roof sheeting in place, you can proceed to install the rafters and complete the roof.

Venting and overhangs are crucial components of a gambrel shed's roof construction. Venting can be accomplished by placing gable end vents on both ends up close to your ridge, or a ridge vent can be installed.

You can install overhangs using 2x6's laid flat or toe-nailed on edge, which are called fly rafters. Another method is to create ladder assemblies using 2 trusses and nailing 2x4 struts between them.

If you choose to do ladder overhang assemblies, you can install them before your roof sheeting is put down. This will give you more strength and flexibility when starting your sheeting on the outside edges of your overhangs.

Raising the roof is a crucial step in roof construction, and it's essential to get it right. You'll need to hoist the rafters up on top of the shed or barn roof, and it's a good idea to get help from 2-3 friends during this stage.

To start, position ladders on both sides of the barn or shed and have one person inside the shed. This will make it easier to hoist the rafters into place.

Hoist the rafters up on top of the shed and line it up so that it runs flush with the wall stud. It's essential to get this part right, as it will affect the entire roof.

You'll need to screw the rafter into the wall, using a metal joint plate between the rafter and top of the wall. Drive 2 3-16d nails through the board of the rafter on an angle so that it goes through the rafter board and into the top of the shed wall.

Here's a summary of the steps to follow:

It's essential to take your time on each rafter and make sure that the edges of the rafter run plumb before moving onto the next rafter. This will ensure a solid and even roof.

Roofing is a crucial part of building a DIY gambrel. The first step is to sheet the roof with 1/2" osb panels, starting from one upper corner and making sure the outside short edge is flush with the outside truss.

To ensure the roof is square, you may have to pull or push the sheet to get it to line up with the rest of the truss tops. This will also help you nail the sheet to the trusses in the same fashion, using 8d common nails every 8 inches.

For strength, it's essential to stagger the panel joints, nailing panels 8 inches along the perimeters and 12 inches in the field or inside trusses. This will provide a solid foundation for the roof.

To start shingling your roof, you'll need to acquire a safety harness for working on a steep roof. This is a crucial step to prevent accidents.

Measure the length and width of each sloping section of the roof, and multiply the dimensions to calculate the square footage. This will help you determine how many shingles you'll need.

Add together the square footage calculated for all individual sections, and increase the total by 5% to account for waste and cuts. You can do this by multiplying the total by 1.05.

Purchase enough 3-tab asphalt shingle packages to cover the square footage calculated. It's always better to have a little extra, just in case.

Before installing the shingles, wait for a warm and sunny day to make the process easier. The warmth will make the shingles more flexible, which is essential for bending them on transitions.

Here's a step-by-step guide to shingling your roof:

1. Start at a bottom corner of the lower roof section.

2. Attach each 3-tab shingle with four galvanized roofing nails.

3. Complete the first bottom row.

4. Stagger the next row of shingles so that the tab gaps are offset.

5. Continue nailing offset rows of shingles until you reach the transition.

6. Nail down the upper edge of the shingles that extends up and over the transition.

7. Position the next row of shingles on the upper slope so that the tabs extend over the transition edge.

8. Bend the shingle over the transition and nail it on the upper section of the roof.

9. To secure the bent tabs over the transition, brush shingle adhesive underneath the tabs.

10. Push the bent shingle against the lower roof section and hold briefly so that the adhesive takes hold.

11. Continue nailing, bending, and gluing the shingles over the transition edge.

12. After completing the transition, continue shingling the upper section of roof as you would any roof.

13. Once all sides of the roof are shingled, install ridge cap shingles along the peak.

Roofing felt paper, also known as tar paper, is an optional but highly recommended step in the roofing process. It helps protect the OSB or plywood sheeting underneath the roof.

You can choose between 15# weight and 30# weight roofing felt, but 15# is commonly used.

For low-pitched roofs, like a 3/12 pitch, 30# weight is recommended.

To assemble the rafters, start by laying a piece of 10 ft × 5 ft plywood on the floor, which will serve as a staging area for your rafters. This plywood represents the dimensions for your roof and will help you assemble the rafters accurately.

You'll need to assemble the rafters onto the plywood, lining up the ends of each piece so they run flush with the piece next to it. This will give you an idea of how the rafters will look when they're on top of your shed.

Screw wood blocks on both sides of each rafter piece to keep them in place as you connect them. Use an electric screwdriver to drive screws into each end of the wood blocks and directly into the plywood below.

Here's a step-by-step guide to assembling the rafters:

Remember to take your time and ensure that the edges of the rafter run plumb before moving onto the next rafter.

To determine the top measurements of your trusses, draw lines between the three points you've established, representing the top of the trusses, and measure down 3 1/2" off each line. This will give you the top measurement of each truss piece.

Each truss piece will be 3' 10" long, based on the measurements you've taken. This is the length you'll use for each truss piece in your shed roof.

The angles cut on each end of the truss pieces will be 22.5 degrees, which is a result of the 45-degree line you snapped earlier. This will give your shed roof a solid and sturdy structure.

To get these angle measurements on the ends, use a speed square to ensure accuracy and precision. This tool will help you make clean and sharp cuts on each truss piece.

Assembling the rafters is a crucial step in building your shed or barn. This process involves creating the individual rafter pieces and assembling them onto the roof.

To start, you'll need to lay out a piece of plywood on the floor, which will serve as an assembly site for your rafters. This plywood should be 10 ft × 5 ft (3.0 m × 1.5 m) in size.

Assemble the rafter pieces onto the plywood by lining them up so that the ends of each piece run flush with the piece next to it. Use wood blocks to keep the rafter pieces in place as you connect them.

To create the joints between the rafter pieces, you'll need to cut OSB or plywood to the correct size and shape. A 6 in × 12 in (15 cm × 30 cm) rectangular piece of OSB or plywood is typically used under each joint.

The gusset plate plays a crucial role in connecting the rafter pieces. Use the gusset plate as a template to cut the rest of the gussets, making sure they fit flush with the top edges of the rafter joint.

To attach the gussets, nail them into the rafter boards using 6d nails every 3 inches (7.6 cm) around the edge of the gusset. Repeat this process for all the joints in the rafter.

Here's a summary of the steps involved in assembling the rafters: