Gambrel Storage Shed Plans: A Step-by-Step Guide

Building a gambrel storage shed is a fantastic way to add extra storage space to your yard while also adding some architectural charm to your outdoor space.

The gambrel roof style is a key feature of these sheds, which allows for a unique and functional design.

Gambrel storage sheds can be built in a variety of sizes, but a typical size is 12 feet wide and 16 feet long.

This size provides ample storage space for lawn equipment, gardening tools, and other outdoor gear.

The gambrel roof style also allows for a loft area, which can be used for storing less frequently used items or even as a workspace.

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Before you start building your gambrel storage shed, it's essential to prepare the site. Determine how much space you can commit to the shed and check local codes for setbacks to ensure you're placing it in the right spot.

Consider what you'd like to store in the shed. If you have small tools, you can hang them on the walls to save space, but larger items like lawnmowers and snow blowers will require more square footage.

Decide on the style of roof you prefer, which can affect the overall design and functionality of your shed.

The floor and walls of your gambrel storage shed are crucial components that require careful planning and execution. You'll need to build the floor using sheets of 3/4" plywood, with a pattern consisting of two 4'x8' sheets, a 4'x4' sheet, a 4'x8' sheet, another 4'x4' sheet, and finally two more 4'x8' sheets.

To attach the floor to the joists, use 1 5/8" screws spaced 8" apart, and as a guide, place a drywall square against the edge of the plywood directly over the joist. This will help you avoid missing the joists when putting in the screws. You'll also need to attach the roof ends to the shed with 3" screws, requiring two ladders and three people.

When assembling the walls, start by attaching the base plates to the floor using 3 1/2” screws every 6” in a staggered pattern. Then, screw the walls to each other at the corners using 3 1/2” screws every 8” in a staggered pattern. Make sure to hold the walls vertical as you screw them in, and consider starting with the side walls and then adding the front and back.

Here's a quick rundown of the materials you'll need for the floor and walls:

Remember to check that the wall frames are plumb and level, and attach diagonal braces inside the walls temporarily to keep them square.

Building the floor is a crucial step in constructing your shed. You'll need to lay down sheets of 3/4" plywood, arranged in a specific pattern.

The pattern consists of two full 4'x8' sheets, followed by a 4'x4', then a 4'x8', another 4'x4', and finally two more 4'x8' sheets. This pattern will provide a sturdy foundation for your shed.

To attach the plywood to the joists, use 1 5/8" screws spaced 8" apart. A drywall square can be used as a guide to ensure accurate placement of the screws.

You'll need to attach the roof ends to the shed with 3" screws, which requires two ladders and three people.

The floor framework consists of rim joists, end joists, and side joists. The rim joists are typically 2×8 pressure-treated pine, and the end joists are 11.5 feet long, while the side joists are 16 feet long.

To fasten the perimeter joists together, use metal brackets and galvanized nails. The inner joists are 11.5 feet long and are secured at 24-inch intervals inside the outer floor frame.

Here's a summary of the floor framework components:

The finished floor framework should be installed on concrete footings and fastened with metal anchors to the footings.

Barn style sheds offer more storage space in the attic, especially when compared to gable or saltbox style shed roofs.

A gambrel style shed roof is the most storage-friendly option, allowing for the most space in the attic.

The top and side truss members of a gambrel shed will be equal in both length and end angle measurements.

Each truss consists of 10 pieces, including 4 truss members and 6 gusset plates.

For example, a 10 foot wide shed will have these same measurements for its trusses.

To build wall frames, start by assembling the walls, which involves attaching the walls to each other at the corners using 3 1/2” screws every 8” in a staggered pattern.

You'll need to build four corner posts that are seven feet in length from 4×6 lumber for assembling the front wall. Construct the top plates for the wall, leaving a gap of 3.5 inches for the side wall's top plate to overlap.

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Pre-cutting all the pieces before assembling the side walls can save time and ensure accuracy. Both side walls are the same, so be sure to make identical cuts.

You'll need the following materials for the side walls: 26 - 7'6" 2x4, 8 - 6'8" 2x4, 4 - 4'3" 2x4, 12 - 6 1/2" 2x4, 4 - 2'3 1/2" 2x4, 2 - 15'5" 2x4, 4 - 16' 2x4, 4 - 2'6 1/2" 4x4, and 1/2" plywood scraps.

To ensure the wall frames are plumb and level, check them regularly and attach diagonal braces inside the walls temporarily to keep them square. Use temporary bracing from the floor frame to corner posts to hold the walls erect.

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To ensure a watertight seal, attach siding to the framing using 1 5/8" screws every 8" into every stud, as well as the top and bottom plates.

You'll want to line up the top of the siding 1 1/2" below the top of the walls to allow room for the roof to go on properly. This will also make it easier to install the roof later on.

When cutting out door and window holes, use a reciprocating saw with a long blade to trace the frames from the inside and cut them out. Alternatively, you can pre-cut the holes with a circular saw before installing the siding.

Here's a quick rundown of the order in which you should install the roof: drip edge, flex flashing, underlayment, starter course, and then repeat the process for the sides.

To add the siding to your walls, you'll need to attach it to the framing using 1 5/8" screws every 8" into every stud, as well as the top and bottom plates. This will ensure a secure and even installation.

The siding should be attached 1 1/2" below the top of the walls to allow room for the roof to go on properly. This is crucial to prevent any future issues.

You'll want to use a large drywall square to help line up the screws with the studs. This will save you time and effort in the long run.

It's a good idea to drill pilot holes through the siding, as it can be tough to start screws in it without them. This will prevent any damage to the siding or surrounding materials.

If you're covering door and window holes, use a reciprocating saw with a long blade to trace the window and door frames from the inside and cut them out. Alternatively, you can pre-cut the holes with a circular saw before you put the siding in place, but be careful not to make a mistake.

Here are the key steps to follow when adding siding:

By following these steps and taking the necessary precautions, you'll be able to add the siding to your walls like a pro.

Installing felt and drip edge is a crucial step in protecting your shed from the elements. You can choose between 15# and 30# weight roofing felt, with 15# being a common choice for most roofs.

For optimal protection, it's recommended to use drip edge along all perimeter edges of your roof. This will help prevent water from seeping under the roofing material.

You can roll out rows of feltbuster synthetic underlayment, covering both sections of both sides of the roof, working from the bottom up, and securing it with cap nails or cap staples. This will provide a durable layer of protection.

Drip edge should be nailed every foot or so to the bottom edges of the roof, and then covered with flex flashing to seal it to the roof.

The loft and roofing parts of your gambrel storage shed plans are crucial for a sturdy and watertight structure. You'll want to make the loft floor out of scraps and extra materials from the roof sheathing, using 1 5/8" screws.

To start actually putting the roof on, you'll need to install drip edge, flex flashing, underlayment, and starter course in a specific order. Start by nailing drip edge on the bottom edges of the roof, every foot or so.

Flex flashing is used to cover the nail heads and seal the drip edge to the roof, and you may need to use 3M spray adhesive to help it stick to the wood. Roll out rows of feltbuster synthetic underlayment, covering both sections of both sides of the roof, working from the bottom up, and securing it with cap nails or cap staples.

You can also use tar paper instead of synthetic underlayment, but it's not as durable. Make sure to snap chalk lines before rolling out the underlayment to ensure it's straight.

To add extra support to your roof, you may need to add additional bracing across the trusses. If you do, make sure each truss is exactly at its on-center location across the top.

To start framing your gambrel roof, you'll need to cut and assemble the truss pieces. Each truss piece will be 3' 10" long on the top measurement and the angles cut will be 22.5 degrees off each end.

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You'll also need to cut gusset plates, which are typically made out of 1/2" material like OSB or plywood. For a gambrel truss, you'll need 6 total gusset plates. To ensure accuracy, it's crucial that your first truss measures up, so check its width to make sure it's exactly 10' from one bottom side to the other.

To install the top plates for your side walls, craft them to cover the corner posts and temporarily fasten them together with a clamp. Mark the positions for rafters at 24-inch intervals, then create a ridge board from 2×6 lumber and mark the rafter positions on it similarly.

To determine the truss dimensions for your roof framing project, start by snapping a chalk line on your floor and measuring off 10' on this line, just like you would for a shed floor. This will give you a clear reference point for your truss measurements.

The dimensions of your truss pieces will be determined by the width of your shed. For a 10' wide shed, you'll need to cut your truss pieces to 3' 10" long on the top measurement. Make sure to use a speed square to get the correct angle measurements on the ends, which should be 22.5 degrees off each end.

To ensure your trusses are accurate, transfer the measurements to a 2x4 and cut 4 pieces to form your first truss. Check that the width of your truss is exactly 10' from one bottom side to the other, and make any necessary adjustments to ensure it measures up.

Here are the key measurements to keep in mind for your truss pieces:

By following these steps and using the correct measurements, you'll be able to create accurate trusses for your roof framing project. Remember to double-check your measurements and make any necessary adjustments to ensure a successful build.

Roof framing is a crucial part of building a shed or a house, and it's essential to understand the different components involved. The most common type of roof framing is the gambrel truss, which is used in the example shed plans.

A gambrel truss consists of several pieces, including the rafter beams, which are typically 2x6 lumber, and the plywood gussets, which are used to connect the rafter pairs. The gussets are nailed to the rafter pairs to form a strong and stable connection.

Here are the key components of a gambrel truss:

The truss pieces are cut to specific lengths and angles to ensure a strong and stable connection. The rafter beams are typically cut at a 67.5 degree angle, and the truss pieces are cut to fit together to form a 10' wide gambrel truss.

To assemble the truss, you'll need to transfer the measurements to a 2x4 and cut four pieces to form the first truss. It's essential to check that the width of the truss is exactly 10' from one bottom side to the other.

The gussets are nailed to the rafter pairs, and the truss pieces are cut to fit together to form a strong and stable connection. The roof sheathing is then installed over the trusses, using 15/32" sheathing plywood and 1 5/8" screws or sheathing nails.

The roof framing components are critical to the overall structure of the roof, and understanding the different components involved is essential for a successful build. By following the example shed plans and using the correct materials and techniques, you can create a strong and stable roof that will last for years to come.

Venting and overhangs are crucial components of a well-built roof. You can accomplish venting by placing gable end vents on both ends up close to your ridge, or a ridge vent can be installed.

Gable end vents are a great option for venting, and they can be placed right next to the ridge. This will help to ensure proper airflow and prevent moisture buildup.

Overhangs should be installed if desired, and they can be constructed of 2x6's laid flat or toe-nailed on edge, which are called fly rafters. Fly rafters are a simple and effective way to add overhangs to your roof.

Another method of building front and rear overhangs is to take 2 trusses and make a ladder assembly out of them by nailing 2x4 struts between them. This ladder assembly can then be nailed to the outside shed ends.

If you choose to do the ladder overhang assemblies, you can actually install them before your roof sheeting is put down. This will give you a solid foundation to start your sheeting, and it will add extra strength to your roof.

Sheet the overhangs, and add corner blocking and side overhangs to complete the process.

When building a 10x12 gambrel shed, the front wall frame will have a door, and you'll need to refer to separate pages for instructions on framing the door or window.

The shed will have a board and batten siding, giving it a look and feel similar to timber-frame design.

A 4'x8' sheet of 1/2 plywood is required for the shed, with a total of 8 sheets needed for the project.

The gambrel shed design will give your shed a unique and rustic appearance, perfect for adding some charm to your backyard.

Sheathing your roof is a crucial step in building a gambrel storage shed. You'll want to use 15/32" sheathing plywood, cutting the panels to fit around roof arches so the vertical seams are centered.

For a strong and secure roof, stagger the panel joints by nailing panels 8" along the perimeters and 12" in the field or inside trusses.

To attach the roof sheathing, you can either screw the panels in with 1 5/8" screws or nail them in with sheathing nails, working your way from the base toward the ridge board.

Adding sheathing to your roof or walls is a crucial step in building a sturdy structure. You'll want to use materials like 15/32" sheathing plywood or CDX plywood panels, which can be fastened with galvanized nails or 1 5/8" screws.

To ensure a secure attachment, lay out the panels over the roof frame or wall framing, working from the base toward the ridge board or top plate. Make sure to stagger the panel joints for strength, just like you would when paneling or sheeting your roof.

When installing sheathing, it's essential to have the vertical seams centered on roof arches or wall framing. You can use a drywall square to mark the center line and then cut the panels to fit accordingly.

Here's a quick reference guide for the types of sheathing and their corresponding fasteners:

Remember to nail or screw the sheathing in place every 8 inches along the perimeter and 12 inches in the field or inside trusses. This will provide the necessary support and stability for your roof or walls.

When building doors, you'll need to cut two pieces of T1-11 siding to create the door frames. Cut the doors to fit the door frame, and frame the backs of the doors with 2x4s.

Use three hinges per door, and consider replacing the small screws that come with the hinges with 1 5/8" deck screws for added strength.

Cut four windows out of scrap T1-11 siding, and frame them with 2x3s. The windows should ideally be 27" squares, but feel free to adjust them to fit the window frames if needed.

Attach the four windows to the shed using two hinges per window, in the same fashion as the doors.

First, you'll need to build the corner trim by ripping 3/4" off of 4 pieces of trim with a table saw. You'll then assemble sets of 1 full size piece and 1 ripped down piece into L shapes.

You'll need 4 pieces of corner trim to complete this step. Use 1 5/8" screws to assemble the L shapes.

To attach the corner trim, hold a piece up against the corner of the shed and mark and cut off the extra. Then, attach it to the corners of the shed using 1 5/8" screws.