Gambrel Shed with Lean to Plans and Construction Guide

Building a gambrel shed with a lean to is a fantastic way to create additional storage space in your backyard while also adding a touch of rustic charm to your property. The gambrel design allows for a larger roof space, perfect for storing items like bicycles, tools, or even a small workshop.

The lean to portion of the shed provides a convenient area for accessing your stored items, and can also be used as a workspace or a potting shed. To build a gambrel shed with a lean to, you'll need to start by preparing the site, which involves clearing the area and leveling the ground.

A typical gambrel shed design features a roof with two slopes, one steeper than the other, and can be built using a variety of materials, including wood, metal, or vinyl. The lean to portion of the shed is usually attached to the main structure using a simple framing system, which can be constructed using 2x4s or 2x6s.

For another approach, see: Gambrel Roof Designs

To build a gambrel roof shed, you'll need to create a 14-foot-long ridge board using 2×6 stock, mitered at a 16-degree angle in the front. This will serve as the foundation for your roof frame.

The roof frame consists of 20 upper and lower rafters, which will be crafted using templates. You'll need six upper and eight lower rafters to install the gable overhangs. The rafters will be set at eight inches from the back of the ridge and sixteen inches from the front.

Here's a quick rundown of the rafter requirements:

A gambrel shed is a great addition to any backyard, and having the right materials is essential for a successful build. To get started, you'll need the following materials.

You can build the 10×12 gambrel shed floor with pressure-treated 2×6's and 4×4's. Specifically, you'll need two 2×6's that are 10 feet long and two 4×4's that are 10 feet long.

A shopping list for the entire shed can be overwhelming, but it's essential to have all the necessary materials before you begin. Here's a breakdown of the materials you'll need:

You'll also need various types of nails and screws, including 3 1/2″ galvanized nails, 1 1/4″ galvanized finishing nails, 3″ galvanized finishing nails, and 2″ deck screws.

To assemble the shed, you'll need to cut the materials to size. A cutting list can help you stay organized and ensure that you have all the necessary pieces. Here's a breakdown of the materials you'll need to cut:

To start building your 12x12 gambrel shed, you'll need to construct a 12-foot by 12-foot concrete slab foundation. This will provide a solid base for your shed.

The foundation should be cured for at least 72 hours before you begin work on the shed. This allows the concrete to set properly and ensures a stable base.

You'll need to install J bolts that stick 2.5 inches out of the concrete at a distance of 1.5 inches from the outer perimeter. Four bolts will be installed at the four corners and one at every 2 feet interval along the edges.

Here's a summary of the foundation steps:

With your foundation in place, you can start framing your shed. First, you'll need to craft headers using 2×8 stock for the door and window. Then, build and install the walls as shown in the elevation diagrams.

The bottom of the wall plates should be fastened to the concrete floor by securing nuts and washers to the J-bolts. Two plates should be fastened on the upper part of each wall during framing.

By following these steps, you'll have a solid foundation and framed walls for your 12x12 gambrel shed.

See what others are reading: How to Frame Gambrel Roof

To start building your gambrel shed with a lean-to, you'll need to begin with the truss construction. Find a wide, open flat surface, such as a shed floor or garage floor, and snap a chalk line to measure off 10' for the shed's width.

The first step in figuring out the truss member lengths and end angles is to determine the shed's dimensions. Typically, sheds are built with the exact dimensions of the floor matching the shed's size. For example, a 10' wide x 12' long shed will have a floor that measures exactly 10' x 12' after framing and sheeting.

When measuring the truss top, draw lines between three points to represent the top of the trusses, and measure down 3 1/2" off each line to represent a full 2x4. This will result in end angles of 22.5 degrees each.

Assemble enough trusses for your shed roof, usually going 2' on center with your shed trusses is sufficient, but 16" on center is better and the additional cost will be minimal for the added strength and support.

Check this out: Simple Shed Roof Design

A gambrel truss is a type of roof truss that features two slopes on each side, with the lower slope being steeper than the upper slope.

Consider reading: Gambrel Truss Design

To figure out the truss member lengths and end angles, follow the steps outlined in the truss calculations, which typically start with finding a flat surface to work on.

The first step is to snap a chalk line on the floor and measure off the width of the shed, which is usually the same as the outside measurements of the shed.

The end angles of each truss piece will be 22.5 degrees each, which can be easily measured using a speed square.

For a shed roof, it's common to space trusses 2' on center, but 16" on center is even better and only adds a minimal cost for increased strength and support.

If the truss pieces don't fit together perfectly, make any necessary adjustments and record them so the remaining trusses will be identical.

To assemble the truss pieces, cut four pieces to form the first truss and check to make sure the width is exactly 10' from one bottom side to the other.

For a gambrel truss, you'll need 6 total gusset plates made out of 1/2" material like OSB or plywood.

Curious to learn more? Check out: Gambrel Roof Slope

Nailing gusset plates is a crucial step in truss and roof construction. You'll need 8d common nails for this task.

To secure the gusset plates to the truss, use 10 nails per connection, with 5 nails at each truss end. This ensures a strong and stable connection.

Gusset plates are typically nailed to the truss at three connection spots.

To ensure your gambrel shed with lean to is well-ventilated and protected from the elements, you'll want to focus on roofing and venting. Staggering panel joints for strength is crucial when sheeting your roof, with panels nailed 8" along the perimeters and 12" in the field or inside trusses.

Venting can be accomplished by placing gable end vents on both ends up close to your ridge, or a ridge vent can be installed.

Overhangs should now be installed if desired, and can be constructed of 2x6's laid flat or toe-nailed on edge, which are called fly rafters.

Additional reading: How to Vent a Shed Roof

Roof sheeting is a critical step in building a shed, and it's essential to get it right. Start by sheeting the roof with 1/2" OSB panels, making sure the outside short edge is flush with the outside truss.

The first panel should be nailed every 8" with 8d common nails. Make sure the top of the sheet is even with the top of the outside truss.

To ensure the roof framing is square, you may need to pull or push the sheet to get it to line up. Once you've accomplished this, you can nail the sheet to the trusses in the same fashion.

Use 8d common nails every 8" to secure the sheet to the trusses. Staggering the panel joints for strength is crucial, so make sure to space the panels 12" apart in the field or inside trusses.

Nailing the panels 8" along the perimeter edges will also provide additional support.

If this caught your attention, see: Shed Roof Panels

Venting and Overhangs are crucial elements in completing your roof.

You can vent your gambrel shed by installing gable end vents on both ends up close to your ridge or a ridge vent.

Upper end paneling is installed on both ends of the shed before adding overhangs.

Overhangs can be constructed of 2x6's laid flat or toe-nailed on edge, often referred to as fly rafters.

Another method of building front and rear overhangs is to create ladder assemblies using 2 trusses and 2x4 struts.

These ladder assemblies can be installed before your roof sheeting is put down, allowing you to start sheeting on the outside edges of your overhangs.

This will provide more strength to your roof.

Sheet the overhangs and add corner blocking and side overhangs to complete the process.

On a similar theme: Shed Roof Vents

To construct a gambrel shed with a lean to, you'll need to start with a strong foundation. Construct a 12-foot by 12-foot concrete slab foundation as per our guide.

The next step is to frame the walls. Craft headers using 2×8 stock for the door and window, and build and install the walls as shown in elevation diagrams. Fasten the bottom of the wall plates to the concrete floor by securing nuts and washers to the J-bolts.

You'll also need to frame the roof. Create a 14-foot-long ridge board using 2×6 stock, and miter it at a 16-degree angle in the front. Trace the positions of the rafters over the ridge board using a pencil, and build two template rafters first for crafting the upper and lower rafters.

Here's a summary of the roof framing process:

Finally, cover the walls with siding and add flashing along the upper edges. Attach subfascia long the eaves made from 1×4 stock, and secure fascia level with the roof sheathing along the gable ends.

Transferring measurements to your 2x4's is a crucial step in building a gambrel truss.

To start, you'll need to transfer the measurements from your top lines to a 2x4, cutting four pieces to form your first truss. This will give you the top measurement of 3' 10" for each truss piece.

The angles cut on the ends will be 22.5 degrees each, which can be achieved using a speed square. This is a must-have tool for any carpenter or DIY enthusiast.

When assembling your trusses, it's essential to space them 16" on center for added strength and support. This will ensure a sturdy roof for your shed.

If your shed wall studs are framed at 2' on center, you may need to use two top plates to match the trusses to the wall studs.

To build a sturdy ceiling and loft, you'll need to add siding, ceiling joists, and loft flooring. This will make it easier to install your roof sheeting, as you'll be able to stand on the loft flooring for most of the upper panels.

Additional bracing may be added across the trusses for more support, but make sure each truss is exactly at its on-center location across the top.

For a yard shed with a loft, you'll need to install rafters and soffit ledgers. Start by tracing the layout of the rafter over the upper and outer sides of the nailers, and then create a 14-foot-long ridge board using 2×6 stock.

The common rafters will be set at eight inches from the back of the ridge and sixteen inches from the front. You'll need to build two template rafters first, and then construct 20 upper and lower rafters using the templates.

To install the gable overhangs, you'll need six upper and eight lower rafters. Attach the rafters and secure the joints with framing connectors, and then reinforce the attic joists by nailing to the sides of the rafters.

If you build the loft above the top plates, the headroom below the loft will be 7 1/2 feet. You'll also need to consider the headroom from the floor of the loft to the bottom of the trusses, which will depend on the shed width and the thickness of the loft.

Here's a summary of the materials you'll need for the ceiling and loft construction:

Remember to follow the specific instructions for your shed plans, as the details may vary depending on the design and materials used.

When building a shed, having a clear cutting list is essential to avoid confusion and ensure you have all the necessary materials.

Cutting a 2×6 to 10′ long is a common task, as seen in the 10×12 Shed Plans -Gambrel Shed – Material List. Two pressure-treated 2×6's of this length are required.

Cutting a 2×6 to 11′ 9″ is also necessary, with nine of these pieces needed for the project. This is evident from the Cutting List in the 10×12 shed plans.

Cutting plywood to size is a crucial step in the construction process. Four sheets of 3/4″ tongue and groove plywood, measuring 4’x8′, need to be cut to size.

Cutting 2×4's to specific lengths is also necessary. Eight 2×4's need to be cut to 3′ 9 7/8″ with 22.5 angle cuts on the ends, opposite direction.

Cutting 1×4's to size is also required. Twelve 1×4's need to be cut to size, as listed in the Cutting List.

Cutting 1/2″ plywood to size is another important task. Eight sheets of 1/2″ plywood, measuring 4’x8′, need to be cut to size.

Having the right tools and materials is essential for a successful project. Make sure to have a saw or other cutting tool to make these cuts.

Tall barns offer more headroom and vertical space, making them perfect for storing tall items or for those who want a more spacious shed.

You can build a tall barn with an outside wall height of up to 10/12ft by adjusting the wall stud length. This is a significant increase from the standard 8ft height.

The truss height is one half the shed width, so a 16ft wide barn will have an 8ft truss height. This contributes to the overall height of the barn.

The overall height without foundation is the outside wall height plus the truss height. For a standard height, this will be 16ft for a 16ft wide barn, plus about 2 inches for roof sheeting and shingle thickness.

A typical foundation height is 6-8 inches, which adds to the overall height of the barn. This includes the 4 inches for the skids plus any blocks used.

Tall barns offer more headroom, which is the space from the top of the floor to the bottom of the trusses. This is calculated by subtracting 12 inches from the overall shed height without foundation.

The inside width between studs is the same as the outside width, minus 7 inches for 2x4 framing. This provides a snug space for storing items.