The Roof Truss to Top Plate Connection Guide

A strong roof truss to top plate connection is crucial for the structural integrity of your home. This connection is typically made with a type of connector or a nail or screw.

The most common type of connector used is the truss plate, which is a metal plate that is nailed or screwed to the top plate and the truss. This type of connector is widely available and easy to install.

A minimum of 2-3 inches of bearing area is required for the truss plate to bear on the top plate. This ensures a solid connection and prevents the truss from shifting or rotating.

Nailing or screwing the truss plate to the top plate at a 45-degree angle can help to resist uplift forces and improve the overall connection.

Connecting truss to top plate is a crucial step in building a sturdy roof. The installation process varies depending on whether the trusses are located over or between studs.

If trusses are directly over a stud, place the screw in the seam between the stud and the top plate, then drill at a 22.5-degree angle to secure the truss. This angle is half of 45 degrees, which is the recommended angle for a secure hold.

For trusses between studs, place the screw at the underside of the top plate, pointed directly upward, about half an inch inward from the edge of the plate. Then, angle the screw so it enters the truss at 22.5 degrees.

You can also use long structural screws to secure trusses to the top plate, especially for small outbuildings or in regions with low winds. Drive the screw at a 22.5-degree angle through the bottom corner of the wall plate and into the joist, making sure it sinks at least 1.5 inches into the joist.

Recommended Fastening Options

Connecting truss to top plate can be a bit tricky, but don't worry, I've got you covered.

To nail shed roof trusses to top plates, you'll need to use the right number and type of nails. Three 16d nails are a good starting point, but be careful not to split the end of the truss. Pre-drilling the end before nailing can help prevent this.

Using a Simpson fastener is another great option, which you can find at your local lumber store. These connectors are specifically designed for attaching roof trusses to top wall plates.

Some building codes require the use of a hurricane tie to add extra reinforcement for holding down roof trusses in strong winds. These ties are especially important in areas prone to hurricanes, like Florida.

Here are some key details to keep in mind:

Remember to always follow the manufacturer's instructions for the specific connector or nail you're using, and to check the truss drawings for any uplift force requirements.

Hurricane ties are metal connectors that look a little like joist hangers.

Each one consists of a flat steel plate that sits flush against the wall plate and gets nailed to it, and a notched section that wraps around the joist and gets nailed to that.

They are made from galvanized steel, which is a durable material that can withstand harsh weather conditions.

These ties are designed to withstand 175 pounds of uplift, which is the minimum required by code.

An alternative type of hurricane tie is a galvanized steel plate with a 90-degree bend that allows the bottom section to rest flush against the top plate and the top section to rest flush against one side of the joist.

When using this type of hurricane tie, you need to install two for each connection – one on each side of the joist.

Both types of hurricane ties are manufactured by Simpson Strong-Tie, which also makes joist hangers, post holders, and other types of structural connectors.

Installing hurricane ties is a crucial step in connecting trusses to the top plate. They're designed to withstand 175 pounds of uplift, the minimum required by code.

You can use either the traditional type of hurricane tie or an alternative type with a 90-degree bend. Both types are manufactured by Simpson Strong-Tie.

To install hurricane ties, start by slipping the tie up underneath the joist, with the notch enclosing the joist and the bottom of the notch flush against the bottom of the joist. You should secure it with 1 1/2-inch structural nails.

Regular nails shouldn't be used for this purpose because they don't have the required shear strength. Instead, drive a nail through each of the several holes in the tie.

If you're using alternative ties that go on each side of the joist, you'll need two different types for each joist: one that bends in one direction and one that bends in the opposite direction.