Building a Small Gambrel Roof House from Start to Finish

Building a small gambrel roof house from start to finish requires careful planning and attention to detail.

The first step is to design your house, considering factors such as the size of your lot, local building codes, and your budget.

A gambrel roof house typically has two slopes on each side, with the lower slope being steeper than the upper slope.

This design allows for more living space and a unique aesthetic.

The frame of a gambrel roof house is typically made of wood or engineered wood, with a center beam supporting the roof.

The average cost of materials for a small gambrel roof house is around $30,000 to $50,000, depending on the size and features of the house.

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Design and planning for a small gambrel roof house involves careful consideration of the roof's unique characteristics.

The gambrel roof's distinctive shape, with two slopes on each side, allows for more living space under the roof.

A typical gambrel roof has two slopes, with the lower slope being steeper than the upper slope.

This design enables a larger living area to be created under the roof, often used for bedrooms or storage.

The roof's design also affects the overall height and appearance of the house, making it a great option for narrow lots.

Here's an interesting read: Roof Styles Gambrel

When designing a gambrel roof, you have several variations to choose from. There are several different types of gambrel roofs, each with its own unique characteristics.

The classic barn style is a popular choice, commonly found on farm buildings and historic homes. It maximizes the space under the roof, making it a great option for those looking to add extra storage or living space.

Other forms of gambrel roofs exist, including those found on churches. These roofs are often steeply pitched and symmetrical, adding to their distinctive charm.

The design of a gambrel roof can greatly impact the overall aesthetic of a building.

Gambrel roofs are reminiscent of America's colonial days, with a historic visual appeal that's hard to replicate.

The rustic charm of gambrel roofs is a big part of their appeal, especially for farmhouse structures.

Gambrel roofs lend a unique touch to certain types of homes, adding to their character and charm.

Their distinctive shape and design make them instantly recognizable and a popular choice for many homeowners.

Designing a gambrel truss requires a clear understanding of its components.

The gambrel truss is composed of various pieces, each with its own unique characteristics and functions.

A gambrel truss piece is essentially a triangular structure, typically made up of two sloping sides and a horizontal bottom chord.

The truss member lengths and end angles can be determined by using specific formulas and calculations.

To figure out these lengths and angles, you'll need to follow a series of steps outlined in the article.

A gambrel truss piece can be classified into different types, such as the top chord, bottom chord, and web members.

For another approach, see: Roof Truss Building

The construction process for a small gambrel roof house is a bit more complex than a traditional roof style.

The gambrel roof's unique shape requires a specific framing system, which typically consists of two slopes on each side.

To begin, a foundation is laid, either a slab or a crawl space, depending on local building codes and site conditions.

The walls are then framed, with the upper slope of the roof being slightly shorter than the lower slope.

A gambrel roof's design allows for more storage space in the attic, but it also requires additional support to ensure stability.

The roof's rafters and trusses are carefully designed and constructed to handle the weight and stress of the roof's unique shape.

For another approach, see: Roof Shape

Now that the top sheets are nailed into place and the roof is square, we can finish with the sheeting on the first side, then do the opposite side in the same manner.

To ensure the roof's strength, it's essential to stagger the panel joints. This is crucial for preventing weaknesses in the roof's structure.

Panels should be nailed 8 inches along the perimeter. This is a critical detail to keep in mind during the sheeting process.

In the field or inside trusses, panels should be nailed 12 inches apart. This spacing helps maintain the roof's integrity and prevents damage from weather conditions.

Removing old roofing can be a challenge, but it's a crucial step in the construction process. You'll want to start by removing the existing roof, which can be a time-consuming task.

Gambrel roofs, in particular, can be tricky to remove due to their steep lower slope, which rarely exceeds 60 degrees. This steep slope makes it difficult to access and remove the old roofing materials.

To make the removal process easier, it's essential to start from the top and work your way down. This will help prevent any debris from falling and causing damage to the surrounding area.

Consider reading: Roofing a Gambrel Roof Shed

The gentler top slope of gambrel roofs, which is usually less than 30 degrees, can also make it more challenging to remove the old roofing. However, this slope can also provide a safer area to work from.

Here are some key things to consider when removing a gambrel roof:

By following these tips and removing the old roofing carefully, you'll be able to prepare the structure for new roofing and ensure a smooth construction process.

Heat rises, and it can be challenging to provide adequate ventilation in a small gambrel roof house due to the high headroom.

To address this issue, consider installing gable end vents or a ridge vent, which can be placed close to the ridge of the roof. This will help to move heat out of the house.

Installing a ridge vent can be a simple and effective solution, but it's essential to ensure proper ventilation to avoid moisture buildup and other issues.

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Gambrel roofs have steep sides that shed rainwater and snowfall better than roofs with gentler slopes, potentially protecting your roof from storm damage.

The steep sides of Gambrel roofs help water run off quickly, reducing the risk of water accumulation and damage.

Installing a drip edge on the bottom edges of the roof is a crucial step in ensuring proper water drainage. You should nail every foot or so to ensure a secure fit.

Proper installation of underlayment is also essential for water drainage. Feltbuster synthetic underlayment, for example, is more durable than tar paper and should be rolled out from the bottom up, securing it with cap nails or cap staples.

Flex flashing can help seal the drip edge to the roof, but you may need to use 3M spray adhesive to get it to stick to the wood.

The steep sides of Gambrel roofs can potentially protect your roof from storm damage in the long run, making them a great choice for areas prone to heavy rainfall or snowfall.

Heat rises, and it can be difficult to provide adequate ventilation to move that heat out of the high headroom common in gambrel roofs. This is a crucial consideration when building a shed with a gambrel roof.

Venting can be accomplished by placing gable end vents on both ends up close to your ridge, or a ridge vent can be installed. Both options are effective at removing heat and moisture from the roof.

To maximize ventilation, consider installing gable end vents or a ridge vent. This will help keep your shed cool and dry.

A ridge vent is a great option if you want to minimize the visual impact of ventilation. It can be installed along the ridge of the roof, allowing heat to escape without adding any visible features.

Gable end vents, on the other hand, can be installed at the ends of the roof, providing excellent ventilation and a more traditional look.

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To install roofing components, start by nailing drip edge on the bottom edges of the roof, spacing nails every foot or so. This provides a crucial barrier against water intrusion.

The order in which you install components is important, so make sure to roll out flex flashing to cover the nail heads and seal the drip edge to the roof. You may need to use 3M spray adhesive to help the flex flashing stick to the wood.

For underlayment, roll out rows of feltbuster synthetic underlayment, covering both sections of both sides of the roof, working from the bottom up. Secure the underlayment with cap nails or cap staples.

Adding drip edge to the sides of the roof is a must, starting from the bottom up and overlapping pieces by about 6 inches. Instead of cutting new pieces for where the roof changes angles, simply snip the part of the drip edge that sticks down and bend it to the correct angle.

To finish the installation, roll out flex flashing on the sides, on top of the drip edge and the underlayment.

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The Valley-Style roof is a popular choice for homes, and it's easy to see why - it tends to be very spacious.

This style of roof has multiple slopes that meet to form valleys. Valley-style gambrel roofs usually have eight slopes in total, with two front-facing slopes.

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To build a small gambrel roof house, you'll need a long list of tools. A miter saw is a must-have, as it's the most accurate saw for the job.

The tools list is quite extensive, with over a dozen different types of saws, drills, and other power tools. You'll also need a level, a calking gun, and at least two ladders, one of which should be at least 14 feet tall.

A drywall square and rafter square are also essential for accurate measurements. You'll also need a roofing nailer, impact driver, and air compressor.

Here's a breakdown of the tools you'll need:

As for materials, a small gambrel roof house will require a significant amount of lumber, including 2x4s, 2x6s, and 2x8s. You'll also need roofing underlayment, roofing nails, and shingles. The total cost of materials will be around $4,000.

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To build the side walls of your small gambrel roof house, pre-cut all the pieces to save time. Be accurate with your cuts, as the walls won't fit together properly if they're not precise.

You'll need 26 - 7'6" 2x4s, 8 - 6'8" 2x4s, 4 - 4'3" 2x4s, 12 - 6 1/2" 2x4s, 4 - 2'3 1/2" 2x4s, 2 - 15'5" 2x4s, 4 - 16' 2x4s, 4 - 2'6 1/2" 4x4s, and 1/2" plywood scraps.

To ensure the side walls are square, measure the diagonals regularly during assembly. If the diagonals are the same length, the floor is square.

To start framing and assembling your shed, you'll need to establish the truss dimensions. Typically, sheds are built so that the exact dimensions of your floor will be exactly equal to your shed size.

Start by finding a nice wide open flat surface, such as your shed floor or a garage floor, and snap a chalk line to mark the dimensions of your shed. If you're building a shed that's 10' wide x 12' long, your shed floor after framed and sheeted with plywood or OSB will measure exactly 10' x 12'.

For a gambrel truss, you'll need to measure down 3 1/2" off each line to represent a full 2x4. This will give you the necessary measurements to cut and make your first truss.

Each truss piece will be 3' 10" long on the top measurement and the angles cut will be 22.5 degrees off each end. To get these angle measurements on the ends, use a speed square.

Assemble enough trusses for your shed roof, usually going 2' on center with your shed trusses is sufficient, but 16" on center is better for added strength and support.

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To lay skids and build a subfloor, start by laying out four 16' 4x4s on the ground, leaving 3' 6" of space between them.

The space between the 4x4s is crucial for a stable subfloor. You'll need to assemble the subfloor on top of the skids and then screw them together with 3 1/2" screws.

The 2x6s for the joists and sides should be 11'9" and 16' long respectively. You'll need 13 of the 11'9" 2x6s and 2 of the 16' 2x6s.

Make sure to leave 14 1/2" of space between the 2x6s, except for the first and last spaces, which should be 13 3/4". This will minimize cutting or waste.

To ensure the subfloor is square, regularly measure the diagonals. If the diagonals are the same length, you know the floor is square.

Before building the rest of the shed, level the subfloor by placing blocks of pressure treated wood scrap under the 4x4 skids in at least 4 places along each skid.

Side Walls' Framing is a crucial step in building your project. Pre-cut all the pieces to save time, and be accurate with your cuts to ensure the walls fit together properly.

The side walls are the same, so once you've cut all the pieces, you can assemble them. However, I learned from my own experience that assembling them in 2 pieces each can be tricky, so it's best to stick to the original plan and build them as one piece each.

To pre-assemble the "H" shaped areas, you'll need to fit them into the wall before attaching the screws. These areas are crucial, as they provide the necessary space for the screws.

You'll need the following materials for the side walls:

Make sure to check squareness by measuring the diagonals, and use 3" deck screws for everything.

Back Wall Framing is a relatively simple process, but it does require some attention to detail. The double top plate on the back wall is longer than on the side walls.

The materials needed for the back wall framing are straightforward: 10 pieces of 7'6" 2x4 lumber, 2 pieces of 11'5" 2x4 lumber, and 1 piece of 12' 2x4 lumber.

These pieces will be used to create the frame of the back wall, with the longer top plate providing additional support.

Related reading: Gambrel Roof Framing

To make gussets for the roof arches, you'll need sheets of 3/4" plywood. Mark every 11 1/4" on the short sides of the sheet, and every few feet in the middle, to lay out the pattern.

You'll also need a straightedge and a 48" drywall square to draw parallel lines between the marks. This will help you create the pattern accurately.

Mark every 9 1/4" along all of the lines you just made, and along the long edges of the sheet. This will give you the necessary markings for the gusset pattern.

To cut out the gussets, cut along the lines with a circular saw in the same order you drew them. Start with the longest lines first, then the short perpendiculars, and finally the zigzags.

It's essential to resist the urge to over-cut with the circular saw to save time, as it will weaken the gussets. Instead, use a jigsaw or handsaw to finish each cut.

You'll need a total of 84 gussets for the roof arches.

To build a sturdy ceiling and loft, you'll need to focus on the framing process. Start by cutting the beams for the roof arches, using a miter saw to cut one end of a 2x4 at a 67.5 degree angle. This will help create the shape of the arches.

Cut 60 beams this way, using 10' 2x4s to get 2 pieces out of each board. For loft beams, cut the ends of 9 12' 2x6s at 67.5 degree angles. These beams will span across the bottoms of the arches, providing additional support.

Screw the 2x6s to the roof arches, using 2 3" screws through the end of each 2x6. Make sure to space them evenly along the base of the roof arches to provide a solid foundation for the loft flooring.

To add loft flooring, you'll need to cut the ends of the 2x6s at 67.5 degree angles, then screw them to the roof arches. Use 2 3" screws per piece to secure them in place. Additional bracing may be added across the trusses for more support, but make sure each truss is exactly on its on-center location.

The first and last roof arches have both loft beams and 5 vertical 2x4s to reinforce them. Space them evenly along the base of the roof arches, then attach them with 3" screws. Use a square to ensure they're perpendicular to the base.

Reinforcing the roof arches will provide a solid base for the loft flooring and ceiling. By following these steps, you'll be able to create a sturdy and secure ceiling and loft for your project.

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Building an assembly jig is a crucial step in ensuring accurate angles when assembling roof arches. You'll need a piece of scrap plywood, a few feet wide, to serve as the base of your jig.

To start, screw one of the rafter beams into the plywood. This beam will form the foundation of your jig.

Next, get another rafter beam and screw it into the plywood next to the first one. This will create an isosceles triangle with a base of 101 5/8". This specific measurement is key to achieving accurate angles.

By following these simple steps, you'll be able to create a reliable assembly jig that will make the rest of the framing and assembly process much smoother.

As you start adding the sheathing to your roof, make sure the vertical seams are centered on roof arches. Cut the sheathing panels accordingly to achieve this.

You'll need to screw or nail the sheathing panels in place using 1 5/8" screws or sheathing nails. It's easier to screw the panels in with some overhang, then cut them to fit in place after marking your center line with a drywall square.

When assembling the subfloor, it's essential to regularly measure the diagonals to ensure the floor is square. If the diagonals are the same length, you know the floor is square.

The subfloor is assembled on top of the skids, and the 2x6s are spaced 14 1/2" apart, except for the first and last spaces, which are 13 3/4". This minimizes cutting or waste.

To ensure the roof is square, you may need to pull or push the sheet to get it to line up with the truss tops. Once the trusses are exactly on their on-center locations, you can nail the sheet to the trusses every 8" with 8d common nails.

A gambrel roof can be implemented in many ways into a pitched roof design, including gable-gambrel, dormer-gambrel, and valley gambrel combinations.

These combinations can be seen in various examples, such as a home with a gable-gambrel roof design. You can also incorporate a gambrel roof style in combination with just about any roof pitch.

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A gambrel roof can be paired with a gable roof, as seen in a home with a main house having a gambrel roof and an attached garage having a gable roof.

The gambrel style can also be used in combination with other roof styles, such as a classic gambrel roof with a slight overhang, or a gambrel roof with no overhang on sides and no overhang on ends.

Here are some examples of gambrel roof combinations:

These combinations offer a wide range of possibilities for incorporating a gambrel roof style into a pitched roof design.