Gambrel Sheds for Storage and More: A Comprehensive Guide

Gambrel sheds are a popular choice for homeowners who need extra storage space. They offer a unique roof design that provides more headroom inside, perfect for storing tall items like bicycles or kayaks.

The gambrel shed's steeply pitched roof allows for a loft area that can be used for storage or even as a small workspace. This feature makes it ideal for homeowners who want to maximize their storage capacity.

A gambrel shed typically has a rectangular base with a sloping roof that has two slopes, with the lower slope being steeper than the upper one. This design allows for a larger storage area and a more aesthetically pleasing appearance.

Gambrel sheds can be built in a variety of sizes, from small to large, making them a versatile option for homeowners with different needs.

When designing a gambrel shed, you want to consider the roof pitch. The combination of a 29/12 lower section and a 4/12 upper section is a great starting point.

The roof covering is also important. Asphalt shingles are a popular choice, but metal roofing is an option if you prefer.

The roof structure is typically made up of 2x4 trusses. This provides a sturdy base for the roof.

Overhangs are optional, but can add a nice touch to the overall design. A 12-inch overhang can be a good starting point.

The floor joists are also an important consideration. 2x6 joists spaced at 12 inches on center provide a solid foundation.

Wall stud spacing is typically 16 inches on center, with 2x4 studs. This provides a good balance between structural integrity and cost.

Double top and single bottom plates with double corner studs add extra strength to the wall framing.

The floor covering is typically 3/4 inch plywood. This provides a smooth surface for the floor.

You can choose from a variety of foundation options, including pressure treated skids, concrete slab, or a floor-less foundation.

The wall materials can be 4x8 sheets of hardboard siding or T-111. Both options provide a durable and attractive finish.

The door style is also customizable. Out-swinging shed doors are a popular choice, and you can opt for a pre-hung door or an overhead door.

The door location is flexible, and can be placed on any wall. You can also choose from single, double, wider, or narrower doors.

A crows beak, or pointy feature, can be added to the gambrel end of the shed if you prefer.

Finally, the loft area is a great place to add extra storage. You can choose to include instructions for a full-width loft in your plans.

To build a gambrel shed, you'll need a variety of tools and materials, which can be overwhelming to gather.

You'll need a miter saw, as a handheld circular saw isn't accurate enough for this project. A table saw is also necessary.

You'll need to order your materials before starting to build, or you won't get very far. The materials list includes 16 Simpson Strong Tie 18g 4x4 hurricane ties, among other items.

You'll need a range of lumber, including 92 2x4x8' pieces and 30 2x4x10' pieces. You'll also need 9 2x6x12' pieces and 13 2x6x12' PTGC pieces.

A roofing nailer is also necessary, along with a level and a drywall square. You'll also need a reciprocating saw, a drill, an impact driver, and an air compressor.

Here's a breakdown of the lumber you'll need:

The materials cost is around $4,000.

To build a solid foundation for your gambrel shed, start by laying out 4 16' 4x4s on the ground with 3' 6" of space between them. This will form the base of your subfloor.

As you build the subfloor, use 13 11'9" 2x6s for the joists and 2 16' 2x6s for the sides, leaving 14 1/2" of space between each 2x6, except for the first and last spaces which are 13 3/4" apart. This will help minimize cutting and waste.

To ensure your subfloor is square, regularly measure the diagonals as you assemble it. If the diagonals are the same length, you know the floor is square.

To measure 2x4's, start by drawing lines between three points to represent the top of the trusses, and measure down 3 1/2" off each line to get the top measurement.

Each truss piece will be 3' 10" long on the top measurement, which is a key dimension to keep in mind for cutting and making our first truss.

The angles cut on the ends of each truss piece will be 22.5 degrees each, making it essential to use a speed square to get these measurements accurate.

Before cutting the 2x4's, make sure to transfer these measurements to the wood precisely to ensure the truss pieces fit together correctly.

Cut four pieces to form our first truss, and then lay them out together to check if the width of your truss is exactly 10' from one bottom side to the other.

If the truss doesn't measure up, make any necessary adjustments and record these adjustments so that the remaining trusses will be identical.

To prepare the site for your shed, start by removing vegetation underneath where the shed will sit and 1-2 feet on every side. This will give you a clear area to work with.

You'll want to lay down burlap or landscaping fabric to keep weeds from growing. This will save you time and effort in the long run.

For a 16'x20' pad, you'll need 6-8 yards of gravel. This will provide a solid base for your shed.

Level the gravel as best you can, aiming for a surface that's within an inch or two of perfect. You can always make adjustments later with blocking.

To lay skids and build the subfloor, start by placing four 16' 4x4s on the ground, with 3' 6" of space between them. This will provide a solid base for your shed.

Make sure to assemble the subfloor on top of the skids and screw them together with 3 1/2" screws. You'll need 13 11'9" 2x6s for the joists and 2 16' 2x6s for the sides.

The subfloor is made up of 2x6s with 14 1/2" of space between them, except for the first and last spaces, which are 13 3/4". This spacing allows for minimal cutting or waste when assembling the subfloor.

Regularly measure the diagonals to ensure the subfloor is square. If the diagonals are the same length, you know the floor is square.

To level the subfloor, place blocks of pressure-treated wood scrap under the 4x4 skids in at least four places along each skid. Use a long, straight board to extend your level for accurate measurements.

To build the side walls of your project, it's essential to pre-cut all the pieces before assembly. This will save you time in the long run and ensure the walls fit together properly.

For the side walls, you'll need 26 - 7'6" 2x4s, 8 - 6'8" 2x4s, 4 - 4'3" 2x4s, 12 - 6 1/2" 2x4s, 4 - 2'3 1/2" 2x4s, 2 - 15'5" 2x4s, 4 - 16' 2x4s, and 4 - 2'6 1/2" 4x4s.

Pre-assembling the "H" shaped areas before fitting them into the wall is crucial, as there won't be enough room for the screws otherwise.

Be sure to assemble these areas carefully and check their squareness by measuring the diagonals.

To assemble the double top board, use 3" deck screws for everything, and screw all double boards together every 8" in a zigzag pattern.

The back wall of your project is pretty straightforward to assemble. Unlike the side walls, the double top plate is longer on the top.

You'll need to cut three pieces of 2x4 lumber: ten at 7'6", two at 11'5", and one at 12'.

Cutting the beams is a crucial step in framing your structure. Use a miter saw to cut one end of a 2x4 at a 67.5 degree angle.

To get the exact angle, set the saw to 22.5 degrees. This will give you the correct angle for the roof arches. I've found that a miter saw is the best tool for this job, as it allows for precise cuts.

Cut 60 beams this way, using 10' 2x4s to get 2 pieces out of each board. This will save you time and material in the long run.

For loft beams, cut the ends of 9 12' 2x6s at 67.5 degree angles. Be careful not to cut off too much of each end, as this will affect the beam's stability.

The angled ends should make the beams look like big rafter beams. This is a great visual cue to ensure you're cutting the beams correctly.

To start roofing and sheathing your gambrel shed, you'll want to begin with the roof sheathing. This involves attaching 15/32" sheathing plywood to the roof with 1 5/8" screws or sheathing nails, making sure to center the vertical seams on roof arches.

The order of installation is crucial, so make sure to start by nailing drip edge on the bottom edges of the roof, followed by flex flashing, underlayment, and starter course. This will ensure a watertight seal and protect your roof from the elements.

For the actual sheathing, you can use 1/2" OSB panels, starting at one of the upper corners and nailing the outside edge every 8" with 8d common nails. Remember to stagger the panel joints for strength, nailing every 8" along the perimeter and 12" in the field or inside trusses.

To figure out truss member lengths and end angles, you'll need to start by identifying the different types of gambrel truss pieces. Gambrel truss pieces are the individual components that make up the roof truss.

The exact measurements of your shed floor will be equal to its size, so if you're building a 10' wide x 12' long shed, your floor will measure exactly 10' x 12' after framing and sheeting.

For a shed with a 10' wide floor, you'll start by snapping a chalk line on the floor and measuring off 10' on this line.

Sheeting is a crucial step in roofing, and it's essential to get it right to ensure a strong and durable roof.

You'll need to start with the right materials, such as 1/2" osb panels, which are commonly used for roof sheeting.

To begin, start on one of the upper corners and ensure the outside short edge of the panel is flush with the outside truss.

Make sure the osb or plywood top is even with the top of the outside truss, and use 8d common nails to secure the edge every 8 inches.

As you continue to add more panels, make sure to stagger the panel joints for strength, nailing them 8 inches along the perimeters and 12 inches in the field or inside trusses.

It's also important to nail the top of the sheet to the truss tops, which may require some pulling or pushing to get it to line up.

Once you've got the first side sheeted, you can finish the opposite side in the same manner.

Remember, the key to a strong roof is to ensure that the trusses are exactly on their on-center locations, which will help the sheeting fit snugly into place.

Venting and overhangs are crucial components of a gambrel shed roof. Venting can be accomplished by placing gable end vents on both ends up close to your ridge, or a ridge vent can be installed.

Gable end vents are a great option for adding ventilation to your shed. Gable end vents can be placed on both ends of the shed, up close to the ridge.

Ridge vents are another option for adding ventilation, and they can be installed in place of gable end vents. Installing a ridge vent can provide better airflow and reduce the risk of moisture buildup.

Overhangs can be installed to add a decorative touch to your shed and provide extra protection from the elements. Overhangs can be constructed of 2x6's laid flat or toe-nailed on edge, which are called fly rafters.

Another method of building front and rear overhangs is to take 2 trusses and make a ladder assembly out of them by nailing 2x4 struts between them. These ladder assemblies can then be nailed to the outside shed ends.

Installing ladder overhang assemblies before your roof sheeting is put down can actually add extra strength to your shed. This is because you can start your sheeting on the outside edges of your overhangs.

Sheeting the overhangs is an important step, and it should be done carefully to ensure a watertight seal. Corner blocking and side overhangs should also be added to complete the overhang installation.

As you start building your gambrel shed, you'll need to focus on the loft and ceiling area. Adding siding, ceiling joists, and loft flooring is a crucial step, so make sure to do it carefully.

You can add siding, ceiling joists, and loft flooring in this order, which will make it easier to install your roof sheeting. Additional bracing may be added across the trusses for more support.

The addition of loft flooring will give you a solid surface to stand on while installing your roof sheeting. If you add extra bracing, make sure each truss is exactly at its own center location across the top.

The ceiling and loft components are crucial in creating a functional and comfortable living space. We'll start with the loft flooring, which will make it easier to install roof sheeting as you'll be able to stand on it for most of the upper panels.

For added support, you can add bracing across the trusses, but make sure each truss is exactly at its on-center location across the top.

The headroom above and below the loft will depend on the shed width, the thickness of the loft, and whether you build the loft above or below the top plates.

If you build the loft above the top plates, you'll have a headroom of 7 1/2 ft below the loft.

To determine the headroom from the floor of the loft to the bottom of the trusses, you need to subtract 6 inches for the truss, the thickness of the loft (typically 6 inches for 2x6 joists and 1/2 in floor sheeting), and dimension "D" (which varies with the shed width).

The loft beams will span across the first 8 roof arches, and you'll need one extra beam for the other end of the roof, totaling 9 beams. Cut the ends of these beams at 67.5 degree angles (set your miter saw to 22.5 degrees) to make them look like big rafter beams.

To install the loft beams, screw them to the roof arches using 2 3" screws through the end of each beam, making sure the beams are on the same side as the gussets.

The loft floor can be made out of scraps and extra from the roof sheathing, and you can use 1 5/8" screws to secure it in place.

Overall height without foundation is calculated by adding the outside wall height and the truss height, which is one half the shed width.

To get the measurements for your truss top, you'll need to draw lines between three points on your floor. These lines should represent the top of the trusses, and measuring down 3 1/2" off each line will give you a full 2x4.

The angles of the truss pieces will be 22.5 degrees each, making them a perfect fit for a gambrel truss. This is especially important when building a shed that's 10' wide, as you'll want to ensure that your trusses are precisely cut.

By using a speed square, you can easily get the angle measurements on the ends of your truss pieces. This tool is a must-have for any DIY project, and it will make your life much easier in the long run.

Each truss piece will be 3' 10" long on the top measurement, making them perfectly suited for a shed with a 10' wide floor. The key is to get the measurements just right, so take your time and double-check your work.

The truss height will be half the shed width, so for a 10' wide shed, it will be 5ft. This is an important consideration when building a loft or ceiling, as you'll want to ensure that your trusses are properly supported.

To get the overall height of your shed, you'll need to add the truss height to the outside wall height. For a standard 10' wide shed, this will be 13ft. Don't forget to add about 2 inches for roof sheeting and shingle thickness.

By following these simple steps, you'll be able to get the precise measurements you need for your truss top. Remember to take your time and double-check your work, and you'll be building a beautiful shed in no time.